Wiping evening bugs off my windshield, aka my face! - and not before stopping for a beer with the locals at Happy Trials in Argusville. At the time, I was looking for a payphone.
I didn't find a payphone, but I found a cellphone to borrow and a beer to drink instead! Not a bad tradeoff.
So, my phone is back in action as of this morning. That's the good news. Although the OK button seems to think its new job is the Volume Adjustment button. It's a little confused. But other than that the phone seems to work. The camera and iPod are still toast unfortunately. But like you say Kuhlberg, who needs music when you can sing your favorite song! And once you've photographed one field of wheat, you've photographed them all.
Speaking of photographs, I am staying at another warmshowers place (I was telling my new friends at Happy Trails about this warmshowers jazz and she promptly quips 'that sounds like something my child-protection software should filter out!' - I did not respond. Ummm, no comment lady!
Anyway, the house I'm staying at has computers and internets and a little slot for SD cards. Luckily, the SD card that was in the camera was not ruined. Thank the good lord. All my pictures from Glacier are on there and I am very pleased they are still with us. Everything's not lost, Coldplay was right! So I'm going to try and post a few pictures and see what happens.
This was the last picture taken by my Canon SD600 before Devil's Lake got the best of her.
May you rest in peace SD600. And mister iPod. Boo hoo.
There is a lot of this in North Dakota. Farmland. North Dakota's farmland is much nicer, more well kept, more colorful and more varied than Montana. I'm not sure it's Montana's fault, I think it's more how God and nature decided to build the land and soil. And annual rainfall.
This baseball field reminded me of growing up... I think it had something to do with the Coca-Cola scoreboard and big ol' garbage cans along the foul ball line.
This is your standard town, or non-town, in MT and ND. It ain't exactly bustling!
One thing to note: the water tower. As you ride, you know how far it is to the next town based on your maps and your bike odometer, and you can't help but dream of lemonade or cheeseburgers or whatever it is that your mind has conjured up. The excitement builds as you get closer... it's nothing, nothing, nothing... and then you see the water tower! It's exciting. But even once you spot the water tower and the clump of trees that indicates the 'town', you still have a good 5 miles before you reach the clump of trees and watertower.
This was the happy birthday pool at the Econolodge. Very nice. And just for the record, Econolodge's are on the high end of accommodations as far as hotels go around here.
In case you were wondering where the geographical center of North America was... it's in Rugby, North Dakota. Now you know.
Yes this is a real picture and no I have no idea what they're thinking. Shoooeeee I'm gonna transport this tractor good! My chevy'll tow an entire Wal-Mart if you want it to! There's 'WIDE LOAD', and then there's this guy.
This is after Project Mohawk, with barber Heather, Mippy the dog (or something like that), Kyle the boyfriend, and Mike the dad. This was in Minot, ND - the Perkins night and waffles morning. Super nice people.
Before Project Mohawk...
A kinda creepy ad in the newspaper... she must have a lot of keys in her pocket. That Judy, what a character!
It's awfully HOT under these lights!
These oil drills reminded me of mosquitoes...
It was either camping in the park grass with swarms of mosquitoes, or camping in this half-completed concrete structure with less mosquitoes. And the winner is: Less Moquitoes!
I was very pleased to see this sign.
I had to catch this sign on the way out of Montana, since we missed it on the way in - as we were traveling a road less traveled that barely had pavement, let alone signs.
'What's behind Door number 13?'
Big Sky
This was on one of the Indian Reservations. I have nothing but contempt for what we did to the Native Americans. We slaughtered them, took their hunting land - the land they'd cared for with pious respect for years and years and years. We betrayed them, dishonored countless treaties, obliterated them with deadly diseases, introduced them to alcohol (what I keep calling Brown Water) which seems to be their current downfall.
One mile before this sign I had said a quick prayer to God, asking him for water. The situation was becoming dire and I really didn't feel like dying that day. Manohman was he quick to answer! I saw this sign not more than 37 seconds after saying a prayer. And you have to understand that Montana and Route 2 does NOT have Rest Areas. It was very rare to come across a Rest Area. They should've put a God At Work sign right next to it, because it was most assuredly an answer to my prayer. Maybe I should pray more often.
Interesting sign... as chickens and an ostrich scamper about!
These poor guys.
It's awfully HOT under these lights!
These oil drills reminded me of mosquitoes...
Hess seemed to own most of these, secretly robbing MT and ND of all their natural resources. For the low low price of a new community center! Seemed like a good idea at the time to the local zoning board and unknowing farm owner.
This was the all-too-familiar look of the front page of the newspaper. It became old news.
This was the all-too-familiar look of the front page of the newspaper. It became old news.
It was either camping in the park grass with swarms of mosquitoes, or camping in this half-completed concrete structure with less mosquitoes. And the winner is: Less Moquitoes!
I was very pleased to see this sign.
I had to catch this sign on the way out of Montana, since we missed it on the way in - as we were traveling a road less traveled that barely had pavement, let alone signs.
'What's behind Door number 13?'
Big Sky
This was on one of the Indian Reservations. I have nothing but contempt for what we did to the Native Americans. We slaughtered them, took their hunting land - the land they'd cared for with pious respect for years and years and years. We betrayed them, dishonored countless treaties, obliterated them with deadly diseases, introduced them to alcohol (what I keep calling Brown Water) which seems to be their current downfall.
And as you can see, things are going quite well for them! And we call them Indians, because Christopher Columbus was dumb enough to think that he had landed in India. Good thing we have a Columbus Day! What a joke. Anyway, deep breath. Moving on. At least they're getting the last laugh by taking all our money at the casinos.
One mile before this sign I had said a quick prayer to God, asking him for water. The situation was becoming dire and I really didn't feel like dying that day. Manohman was he quick to answer! I saw this sign not more than 37 seconds after saying a prayer. And you have to understand that Montana and Route 2 does NOT have Rest Areas. It was very rare to come across a Rest Area. They should've put a God At Work sign right next to it, because it was most assuredly an answer to my prayer. Maybe I should pray more often.
It also makes you realize how often we take Water for granted. Sister Water, so humble and useful. We water our lawns, we wash our cars, we cleanse ourselves with it, but the reality is that many people in the world would die - are dying - simply to drink it. Literally. I have felt thirsty, beyond thirsty, a few times on this trip. And it does not feel good. So next time you take a sip of it, say ahhhh Deer Park that's good water! And then say thank you. 
This was taken on a hellish day of headwinds. Sustained gusts of 20-30 mph. Traveling downhill, the wind would almost STOP you, even though you were going downhill.
This was taken on a hellish day of headwinds. Sustained gusts of 20-30 mph. Traveling downhill, the wind would almost STOP you, even though you were going downhill.
The hardest day of riding I've experienced. Mentally, physically, emotionally, psychologically - it was the hardest thing I've ever done. Harder than running the marathon. I wanted to stop with every single pedal. To go on seemed impossible.
Anyway, this is a pretty picture from that day.
Another one from Winds from Hell Day. Andy is not pleased.
Another one from Winds from Hell Day. Andy is not pleased.
Interesting sign... as chickens and an ostrich scamper about!
These poor guys.
Meteorites! Wouldn't it be crazy to be sitting in the bathroom, minding your own business, maybe reading a magazine or newspaper -- and then WHAM! 'What in sam heck was that!'
I find it fascinating to imagine these bones filled with life. and skin. And... DINOSAUR.
Another happenin' town in eastern Montana.
I talked with these guys for at least 5 minutes. They seemed very intrigued.
Jay Z and 50 Cent were part of the welcoming party. Word.
This became an eerie part of the ride across Montana. White crosses every 3 or 4 miles where someone had died. In this case 3 people. Based on what I saw, people die because they get unconsiously drunk and then drive their car. Not a good idea.
Shooooeeeeee! My first rodeo. Yee haw!
Once you get east of Glacier, things become a little less scenic.
Get a move on Billy! And watch out for cars!
Ok, this picture. Oh, this picture. We (Cliff, Sean and I - more about them later) were walking back from Many Glacier (in Glacier Nat. Park) to our campground at Swiftcurrent. It's about a half mile walk. Swiftcurrent is known for having lotsa bears, in fact a lot of people at Many Glacier were out on the veranda watching a grizzly up on the hill. The bear got close enough to the road that a ranger apparently shot at it with a plastic bullet, or whatever they use. To dissuade the bear from coming closer.
This was a picture from the dock at Many Glacier. One of my favorite pictures. Radiant light.
These guys. Oh man. Chris, the guy in the black shirt, is crazy. He's hiked the Appalachian Trail, been airlifted by helicopter TWICE for various injuries, all kinds of crazy stories from him, I forget what else. I don't think he's playing with a full deck of cards. And then Cliff, with the backwards hat. This is the guy that's rode over 65,000 miles on his bike, with a goal of 100,000. Interesting dude. Petroleum exploration guy 6 months a year, bicycle touring guy the other 6 months a year. I'll never forget sitting on the dock at Many Glacier talking to him, he said 'if there's one piece of advice I can give you, it is get married and have kids.' Turns out he is lonely as hell. I'll always remember that. He has such a tough exterior, a man's man, big, gruff, strong mountain man, funny guy, but turns out he is absolutely lonely. It made me sad. I'm going to send him postcards along the way. Such a cool guy, he made food for everyone at the campsite, and made me some Zatarains before I left that morning. We're all sharing a drink they call loneliness...
Sunset over St. Mary's Lake in Glacier National Park.
It honestly feels like heaven up in these mountains.
This is Going-to-the-Sun Road. 12 miles up to the top, this is what the road looks like. Narrow. And the drop-off on the side there goes waaaaaaaay down. It's dizzying. Hard to keep your eyes on the road.
This is me about 3/4 of the way up. Logan's Pass is in the background, along with Going-to-the-Sun road.
This was my favorite moment of the trip so far, and I don't think it can be beat. It was so hot this day, hotter than usual, and I was riding up the road. Riding over the Rockies. I was so hot I was probably close to overheating. Blowing a gasket! I came through this tunnel, and a couple with their dog were standing by this waterfall. I looked up and the waterfall was super high. Coming from way up above, cascading down. Then the woman says 'I think you need to stand in this waterfall' and I smiled and said 'I think I do too!' I took my shoes and socks off and in I went. Actually she went first, doing a little dance on the edge. Then I stepped into the water, and walked underneath the waterfall. I can't even describe the feeling. I was so hot, that to experience this barrage of ice-cold glacial water took my breath away. But it was more than hot and cold. It was overwhelming, in the most liberating way. Freedom. Freedom from the heat and elation at the water, it was a baptism of sorts. She said 'this is a spiritual experience' and I couldn't disagree. She said 'just think of where this water is coming from' as we stood there in giddy amazement. Like two little kids running through the sprinkler.
At the bottom, with the big ol' Rockies looming in the background.
I find it fascinating to imagine these bones filled with life. and skin. And... DINOSAUR.
75 million years ago. A little before my time.
Another happenin' town in eastern Montana.
I talked with these guys for at least 5 minutes. They seemed very intrigued.
Honestly, they do look at you as though they understand, or are at least interested. I love cows. 
Vision Quests are a fascinating part of Native American life and lore. I think I must've been Native American in a past life, because I sure do love their culture.
Vision Quests are a fascinating part of Native American life and lore. I think I must've been Native American in a past life, because I sure do love their culture.
Jay Z and 50 Cent were part of the welcoming party. Word.
This became an eerie part of the ride across Montana. White crosses every 3 or 4 miles where someone had died. In this case 3 people. Based on what I saw, people die because they get unconsiously drunk and then drive their car. Not a good idea.
In Sleeping Buffalo, MT, a guy was stumbling out of the bar, ran into a wall on the way out - and the bartender casually asks 'does he need a ride?' - Um, yes I think so!
That same guy then went outside and fell backwards off his 4-wheeler as he tried to drive home. Landed on his head. People had to get ice and water and a chair for this guy. Amazing. And people wonder why there are so many white crosses.
Uhhhh, that's not how it's supposed to look, is it?! And how's that 105 degree stinging sweat in your eye doing? Good? Good!
Uhhhh, that's not how it's supposed to look, is it?! And how's that 105 degree stinging sweat in your eye doing? Good? Good!
Sunset in Cut Bank, Montana.
I imagine Jack Kerouac and his cronies huddled around a fire in there...
I imagine Jack Kerouac and his cronies huddled around a fire in there...
Shooooeeeeee! My first rodeo. Yee haw!
Once you get east of Glacier, things become a little less scenic.
Get a move on Billy! And watch out for cars!
Ok, this picture. Oh, this picture. We (Cliff, Sean and I - more about them later) were walking back from Many Glacier (in Glacier Nat. Park) to our campground at Swiftcurrent. It's about a half mile walk. Swiftcurrent is known for having lotsa bears, in fact a lot of people at Many Glacier were out on the veranda watching a grizzly up on the hill. The bear got close enough to the road that a ranger apparently shot at it with a plastic bullet, or whatever they use. To dissuade the bear from coming closer.
Apparently the bear retreated up the hill, and the crowd that was watching dispersed.
WELL, we were walking back, and a car stopped, and a skiddish couple rolled down the window and quietly said, 'we just wanted to let you know that there is a grizzly up ahead about 50 yards, right by the road' --- oh great! Thanks! Uhhh, can we get in your car? No, just kidding. So we kept walking, slowly, none of us said anything. And then we saw him, about 50 yards off the road, ambling around, eating berries off bushes. He appeared harmless enough, but I'm thinking at any moment he could high-tail it over to us and bad things would happen. So what do I do? Take a picture of course! PRetty bear, pretty beaaar. This was the picture. You can't see him, it didn't work. But trust me, he's there. It was freaky, being that close to a grizzly bear. Anyway, he didn't follow us and we all lived happily after.
This was a picture from the dock at Many Glacier. One of my favorite pictures. Radiant light.
These guys. Oh man. Chris, the guy in the black shirt, is crazy. He's hiked the Appalachian Trail, been airlifted by helicopter TWICE for various injuries, all kinds of crazy stories from him, I forget what else. I don't think he's playing with a full deck of cards. And then Cliff, with the backwards hat. This is the guy that's rode over 65,000 miles on his bike, with a goal of 100,000. Interesting dude. Petroleum exploration guy 6 months a year, bicycle touring guy the other 6 months a year. I'll never forget sitting on the dock at Many Glacier talking to him, he said 'if there's one piece of advice I can give you, it is get married and have kids.' Turns out he is lonely as hell. I'll always remember that. He has such a tough exterior, a man's man, big, gruff, strong mountain man, funny guy, but turns out he is absolutely lonely. It made me sad. I'm going to send him postcards along the way. Such a cool guy, he made food for everyone at the campsite, and made me some Zatarains before I left that morning. We're all sharing a drink they call loneliness...
Sunset over St. Mary's Lake in Glacier National Park.
It honestly feels like heaven up in these mountains.
This is Going-to-the-Sun Road. 12 miles up to the top, this is what the road looks like. Narrow. And the drop-off on the side there goes waaaaaaaay down. It's dizzying. Hard to keep your eyes on the road.
This is me about 3/4 of the way up. Logan's Pass is in the background, along with Going-to-the-Sun road.
This was my favorite moment of the trip so far, and I don't think it can be beat. It was so hot this day, hotter than usual, and I was riding up the road. Riding over the Rockies. I was so hot I was probably close to overheating. Blowing a gasket! I came through this tunnel, and a couple with their dog were standing by this waterfall. I looked up and the waterfall was super high. Coming from way up above, cascading down. Then the woman says 'I think you need to stand in this waterfall' and I smiled and said 'I think I do too!' I took my shoes and socks off and in I went. Actually she went first, doing a little dance on the edge. Then I stepped into the water, and walked underneath the waterfall. I can't even describe the feeling. I was so hot, that to experience this barrage of ice-cold glacial water took my breath away. But it was more than hot and cold. It was overwhelming, in the most liberating way. Freedom. Freedom from the heat and elation at the water, it was a baptism of sorts. She said 'this is a spiritual experience' and I couldn't disagree. She said 'just think of where this water is coming from' as we stood there in giddy amazement. Like two little kids running through the sprinkler.
And then you add in a rainbow and the moment was complete. A gift from above. Thanks to Ana and Jim from San Francisco, it was great meeting you. I hope the rest of your trip was as amazing as this. Although if it was, I'm sorry I didn't go with you!
At the bottom, with the big ol' Rockies looming in the background.
5 comments:
Fantastic pictures! Sorry about the camera. By the way, the worst thing you can do when you have an electronic device that's hit water is try to turn it on. It may send an electrical charge through the device which just fries everything. Better to wait until it has dried and then try to turn it on. I learned this after I dropped my camera in a river and did the same thing. Someone told me this later, "uh thanks". The good news is the canon repair center is in Indiana or Illinois so you can drop it off at their door on the way East!
Sweet picts Viets! Your bike looks cool with all the panniers on it.
Wow...awesome shots Andy...and love the creative captions too. The waterfall shot and rainbow is terrific.
Looking forward to more...oh yeah, you don't have a camera anymore!
Wow such great pictures! I'm so happy your SD Card survived! Knowing how close you came to losing these shots makes them even more precious to the viewer! I love the one of you in th waterfall!
We are living vicariously thru your posts. We hope to make the same (or very similar) trip in 2009.
Thanks for posting!
I love all of your pictures. You look so different...older in a wiser/older way.
I am so happy for you, and so proud of you!
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