7.28.2007

Pictures!

Alrighty folks, we got some pictures! I made it to Fargo, ND last night, about 10pm.

Wiping evening bugs off my windshield, aka my face! - and not before stopping for a beer with the locals at Happy Trials in Argusville. At the time, I was looking for a payphone.
I didn't find a payphone, but I found a cellphone to borrow and a beer to drink instead! Not a bad tradeoff.
So, my phone is back in action as of this morning. That's the good news. Although the OK button seems to think its new job is the Volume Adjustment button. It's a little confused. But other than that the phone seems to work. The camera and iPod are still toast unfortunately. But like you say Kuhlberg, who needs music when you can sing your favorite song! And once you've photographed one field of wheat, you've photographed them all.
Speaking of photographs, I am staying at another warmshowers place (I was telling my new friends at Happy Trails about this warmshowers jazz and she promptly quips 'that sounds like something my child-protection software should filter out!' - I did not respond. Ummm, no comment lady!

Anyway, the house I'm staying at has computers and internets and a little slot for SD cards. Luckily, the SD card that was in the camera was not ruined. Thank the good lord. All my pictures from Glacier are on there and I am very pleased they are still with us. Everything's not lost, Coldplay was right! So I'm going to try and post a few pictures and see what happens.


This was the last picture taken by my Canon SD600 before Devil's Lake got the best of her.
May you rest in peace SD600. And mister iPod. Boo hoo.



There is a lot of this in North Dakota. Farmland. North Dakota's farmland is much nicer, more well kept, more colorful and more varied than Montana. I'm not sure it's Montana's fault, I think it's more how God and nature decided to build the land and soil. And annual rainfall.



This baseball field reminded me of growing up... I think it had something to do with the Coca-Cola scoreboard and big ol' garbage cans along the foul ball line.



This is your standard town, or non-town, in MT and ND. It ain't exactly bustling!
One thing to note: the water tower. As you ride, you know how far it is to the next town based on your maps and your bike odometer, and you can't help but dream of lemonade or cheeseburgers or whatever it is that your mind has conjured up. The excitement builds as you get closer... it's nothing, nothing, nothing... and then you see the water tower! It's exciting. But even once you spot the water tower and the clump of trees that indicates the 'town', you still have a good 5 miles before you reach the clump of trees and watertower.




This was the happy birthday pool at the Econolodge. Very nice. And just for the record, Econolodge's are on the high end of accommodations as far as hotels go around here.




In case you were wondering where the geographical center of North America was... it's in Rugby, North Dakota. Now you know.




Yes this is a real picture and no I have no idea what they're thinking. Shoooeeee I'm gonna transport this tractor good! My chevy'll tow an entire Wal-Mart if you want it to! There's 'WIDE LOAD', and then there's this guy.




This is after Project Mohawk, with barber Heather, Mippy the dog (or something like that), Kyle the boyfriend, and Mike the dad. This was in Minot, ND - the Perkins night and waffles morning. Super nice people.




Before Project Mohawk...




A kinda creepy ad in the newspaper... she must have a lot of keys in her pocket. That Judy, what a character!




It's awfully HOT under these lights!





These oil drills reminded me of mosquitoes...
Hess seemed to own most of these, secretly robbing MT and ND of all their natural resources. For the low low price of a new community center! Seemed like a good idea at the time to the local zoning board and unknowing farm owner.




This was the all-too-familiar look of the front page of the newspaper. It became old news.




It was either camping in the park grass with swarms of mosquitoes, or camping in this half-completed concrete structure with less mosquitoes. And the winner is: Less Moquitoes!





I was very pleased to see this sign.





I had to catch this sign on the way out of Montana, since we missed it on the way in - as we were traveling a road less traveled that barely had pavement, let alone signs.





'What's behind Door number 13?'




Big Sky




This was on one of the Indian Reservations. I have nothing but contempt for what we did to the Native Americans. We slaughtered them, took their hunting land - the land they'd cared for with pious respect for years and years and years. We betrayed them, dishonored countless treaties, obliterated them with deadly diseases, introduced them to alcohol (what I keep calling Brown Water) which seems to be their current downfall.
And as you can see, things are going quite well for them! And we call them Indians, because Christopher Columbus was dumb enough to think that he had landed in India. Good thing we have a Columbus Day! What a joke. Anyway, deep breath. Moving on. At least they're getting the last laugh by taking all our money at the casinos.




One mile before this sign I had said a quick prayer to God, asking him for water. The situation was becoming dire and I really didn't feel like dying that day. Manohman was he quick to answer! I saw this sign not more than 37 seconds after saying a prayer. And you have to understand that Montana and Route 2 does NOT have Rest Areas. It was very rare to come across a Rest Area. They should've put a God At Work sign right next to it, because it was most assuredly an answer to my prayer. Maybe I should pray more often.
It also makes you realize how often we take Water for granted. Sister Water, so humble and useful. We water our lawns, we wash our cars, we cleanse ourselves with it, but the reality is that many people in the world would die - are dying - simply to drink it. Literally. I have felt thirsty, beyond thirsty, a few times on this trip. And it does not feel good. So next time you take a sip of it, say ahhhh Deer Park that's good water! And then say thank you.




This was taken on a hellish day of headwinds. Sustained gusts of 20-30 mph. Traveling downhill, the wind would almost STOP you, even though you were going downhill.
The hardest day of riding I've experienced. Mentally, physically, emotionally, psychologically - it was the hardest thing I've ever done. Harder than running the marathon. I wanted to stop with every single pedal. To go on seemed impossible.
Anyway, this is a pretty picture from that day.




Another one from Winds from Hell Day. Andy is not pleased.




Interesting sign... as chickens and an ostrich scamper about!




These poor guys.






Meteorites! Wouldn't it be crazy to be sitting in the bathroom, minding your own business, maybe reading a magazine or newspaper -- and then WHAM! 'What in sam heck was that!'




I find it fascinating to imagine these bones filled with life. and skin. And... DINOSAUR.
75 million years ago. A little before my time.





Another happenin' town in eastern Montana.




I talked with these guys for at least 5 minutes. They seemed very intrigued.
Honestly, they do look at you as though they understand, or are at least interested. I love cows.



Vision Quests are a fascinating part of Native American life and lore. I think I must've been Native American in a past life, because I sure do love their culture.




Jay Z and 50 Cent were part of the welcoming party. Word.




This became an eerie part of the ride across Montana. White crosses every 3 or 4 miles where someone had died. In this case 3 people. Based on what I saw, people die because they get unconsiously drunk and then drive their car. Not a good idea.
In Sleeping Buffalo, MT, a guy was stumbling out of the bar, ran into a wall on the way out - and the bartender casually asks 'does he need a ride?' - Um, yes I think so!
That same guy then went outside and fell backwards off his 4-wheeler as he tried to drive home. Landed on his head. People had to get ice and water and a chair for this guy. Amazing. And people wonder why there are so many white crosses.




Uhhhh, that's not how it's supposed to look, is it?! And how's that 105 degree stinging sweat in your eye doing? Good? Good!





Sunset in Cut Bank, Montana.




I imagine Jack Kerouac and his cronies huddled around a fire in there...




Shooooeeeeee! My first rodeo. Yee haw!




Once you get east of Glacier, things become a little less scenic.




Get a move on Billy! And watch out for cars!




Ok, this picture. Oh, this picture. We (Cliff, Sean and I - more about them later) were walking back from Many Glacier (in Glacier Nat. Park) to our campground at Swiftcurrent. It's about a half mile walk. Swiftcurrent is known for having lotsa bears, in fact a lot of people at Many Glacier were out on the veranda watching a grizzly up on the hill. The bear got close enough to the road that a ranger apparently shot at it with a plastic bullet, or whatever they use. To dissuade the bear from coming closer.
Apparently the bear retreated up the hill, and the crowd that was watching dispersed.
WELL, we were walking back, and a car stopped, and a skiddish couple rolled down the window and quietly said, 'we just wanted to let you know that there is a grizzly up ahead about 50 yards, right by the road' --- oh great! Thanks! Uhhh, can we get in your car? No, just kidding. So we kept walking, slowly, none of us said anything. And then we saw him, about 50 yards off the road, ambling around, eating berries off bushes. He appeared harmless enough, but I'm thinking at any moment he could high-tail it over to us and bad things would happen. So what do I do? Take a picture of course! PRetty bear, pretty beaaar. This was the picture. You can't see him, it didn't work. But trust me, he's there. It was freaky, being that close to a grizzly bear. Anyway, he didn't follow us and we all lived happily after.




This was a picture from the dock at Many Glacier. One of my favorite pictures. Radiant light.




These guys. Oh man. Chris, the guy in the black shirt, is crazy. He's hiked the Appalachian Trail, been airlifted by helicopter TWICE for various injuries, all kinds of crazy stories from him, I forget what else. I don't think he's playing with a full deck of cards. And then Cliff, with the backwards hat. This is the guy that's rode over 65,000 miles on his bike, with a goal of 100,000. Interesting dude. Petroleum exploration guy 6 months a year, bicycle touring guy the other 6 months a year. I'll never forget sitting on the dock at Many Glacier talking to him, he said 'if there's one piece of advice I can give you, it is get married and have kids.' Turns out he is lonely as hell. I'll always remember that. He has such a tough exterior, a man's man, big, gruff, strong mountain man, funny guy, but turns out he is absolutely lonely. It made me sad. I'm going to send him postcards along the way. Such a cool guy, he made food for everyone at the campsite, and made me some Zatarains before I left that morning. We're all sharing a drink they call loneliness...





Sunset over St. Mary's Lake in Glacier National Park.




It honestly feels like heaven up in these mountains.




This is Going-to-the-Sun Road. 12 miles up to the top, this is what the road looks like. Narrow. And the drop-off on the side there goes waaaaaaaay down. It's dizzying. Hard to keep your eyes on the road.




This is me about 3/4 of the way up. Logan's Pass is in the background, along with Going-to-the-Sun road.




This was my favorite moment of the trip so far, and I don't think it can be beat. It was so hot this day, hotter than usual, and I was riding up the road. Riding over the Rockies. I was so hot I was probably close to overheating. Blowing a gasket! I came through this tunnel, and a couple with their dog were standing by this waterfall. I looked up and the waterfall was super high. Coming from way up above, cascading down. Then the woman says 'I think you need to stand in this waterfall' and I smiled and said 'I think I do too!' I took my shoes and socks off and in I went. Actually she went first, doing a little dance on the edge. Then I stepped into the water, and walked underneath the waterfall. I can't even describe the feeling. I was so hot, that to experience this barrage of ice-cold glacial water took my breath away. But it was more than hot and cold. It was overwhelming, in the most liberating way. Freedom. Freedom from the heat and elation at the water, it was a baptism of sorts. She said 'this is a spiritual experience' and I couldn't disagree. She said 'just think of where this water is coming from' as we stood there in giddy amazement. Like two little kids running through the sprinkler.
And then you add in a rainbow and the moment was complete. A gift from above. Thanks to Ana and Jim from San Francisco, it was great meeting you. I hope the rest of your trip was as amazing as this. Although if it was, I'm sorry I didn't go with you!






At the bottom, with the big ol' Rockies looming in the background.
































Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park. My favorite lake of all-time.

7.27.2007

Nightmare on Rain Street

The evening of the 25th, I was riding to who-knows-where. I didn't necessarily have a destination, I was just going to stop whenever I got tired. I ran into some bikers headed in the other direction, we shared stories over a Flavor Ice (remember those?!) and ice cream. They were going to camp in town for the night, I think that town was Minnewauken.
Anyway, at that point I had only ridden 60 miles and thought I should continue on for another 20 or so. I bid them adieu and on I went.
It was about 5pm and the clouds were looking a little suspect. As I rode, I began to hear rumbles of thunder.
I arrived at the Silver Lakes Casino and Resort around 7pm. It was a beautiful spot, right on the south side of Devils Lake. The sky was still looking ominous so I quickly set up my tent, wanting to have everything set up and secured before the rain began. I had my rainfly on, tent staked down, I put all my panniers in the tent, locked my bike up to the picnic table, and went off in search of dinner.

I found dinner, then got a little sidetracked at the blackjack table :) where I won $150. Bondo and Pete you would've been proud, I split a pair of 3's with my last $10 and luckily won, since it was a dumb move, but desperate times call for desperate measures! I clawed my way back and eventually went on a great run. I couldn't lose. Too bad the max bet was 25.

Anyway, I headed back to the campsite around 10:30pm. As I walked out the front door, it began to sprinkle. I took a few steps but quickly realized that the sprinkle was turning into a downpour. I retreated back to the entranceway, and watched the deluge for a good 30 minutes. It was a hard rain, a cacophony of cantankerous cats and dogs, along with God 's bowling pins creating quite a racket - weeks of heat and humidity and humongous temperatures all pent up and then unleashed all at once in this amazing display of rain and thunder and lightning. The lightning was so frequent that it was almost like daylight, or the light of a full moon. Everything was illuminated. There was no flash of lightning and then thunder a few seconds later. There was lightning upon lightning upon lightning. Continuous, and all over. It lit up the sky like bombs over Baghdad in Dubya's shock and awe campaign. My oh my what a release it was. It finally let up enough that I was able to run down to the campground.

I got in my tent and went over my options. Earlier that night I had talked to my mom and she wanted me to get another hotel room. I told her I can't get a hotel every time it rains or is too hot. But she's my mom and she loves me and wants me to be safe and comfortable and well aren't you supposed to listen to your mother? Man I wish I would have.

I could've packed everything up and got a hotel room, but I would've had to roll my sleeping pad back up, roll my sleeping bag back up, pack my tent up, pack my panniers, put the panniers back on the bike. Bungy the tent to the bike. It seemed too complicated, especially in a downpour.

So I decided to wait the storm out. I felt safe enough, being sheltered by smaller trees that were surrounded by larger trees. With my limited knowledge of how lightning works, I figured the lightning would strike the larger trees first, so I'd be safe amongst the smaller trees. Or so I kept telling myself. I laid there, with rain hammering down on the tent. I thought 'how can it possibly keep this up?' It was the hardest rain I'd ever experienced, and it had been going on for a good 30 minutes now.

At one point I looked at my phone. It was past midnight. As I did so, I placed my hand on the tent floor and realized it was floating. There was water underneath, a puddle. I was now in a puddle. That concerned me, as I had visions of bathtubs and hair dryers and electricity and lightning and you gotta play it safe around electricity! Remember that commercial, with the flying, singing green bug guy and the power lines?

I now felt unsafe, lying in a puddle of water, and decided to seek shelter. The tent was doing a great job of being waterproof. Not one drop of water had made it in. So, I stepped out into the bonanza, into the puddle, and ran up to where the bathrooms were. Soaked, standing under an overhang in my boxers, watching in awe this incredible display by Mother Nature. You can never underestimate her.

The sky was still being lit up, and the rain's frenetic pace only seemed to quicken. I could see my tent in the distance, being illuminated by lightning bolts. I decided that as soon as it seemed safe, I was going to run in, unstake the tent, throw everything on the back of the bike and run up to the hotel. Without putting anything away. As soon as it let up being the key words.

Thirty minutes later, I decided it had let up enough to make a run for it. I ran back down to where the tent was, only I realized that the small puddle had now turned into a small lake! The water was at least a foot deep now, almost up to my knees. My stomach sank, realizing that the water had probably risen above where the waterproof floor goes to on the side of the tent. Where the mesh begins. Mesh and water are not a good mix. I got to the tent, swearing in disbelief - how did the water get so high so fast??? - I unstaked the tent, fishing around underwater for the stakes - and tried to lift it. Didn't even budge. Water is heavy.

I opened the tent door and was disheartened by what I saw. Floating panniers. Floating everything. I fished objects out as I could find them. Throwing them onto the picnic table. It was like fishing the last few cheerios out of a bowl of milk, or finding the last few pieces of chicken in your chicken noodle soup broth. I needed to make sure I had everything before I turned the tent upside down to get the water out. After it felt like I had retrieved everything, I lifted one side of the tent. With the door opened, the water drained enough that I was able to get if off the ground. I carried it over to where the bathrooms were. Made 3 or 4 drips transporting my things from the picnic table to the bathrooms. Then I threw everything on the back of the bike. Dripping sopping wet tent, sodden, soaked sleeping bag - soaked everything. I checked the pannier with my phone, camera and iPod, and things were wet. Not soaked, but water had gotten in by way of the zipper. The panniers were designed to be waterproof to rain - there is a rain guard covering the zipper - but they weren't designed to be completely submerged in water. I tried to turn the camera on - nothing. Tried the iPod - nothing. Phone? Nothing. All ruined.

I got up to the hotel and sloshed my way to the front desk. I explained what happened, assuming they'd be very apologetic and offer me a free room. Nope. Full rate, plus tax. I was so discombobulated by what had just happened that it didn't occur to me to be angry. I was shell shocked. I got to the room and started the long process of hanging things up to dry.
At this point it was near 2am. I slung the tent over the table, hung all the clothes up on hangers, put the sleeping bag over the shower curtain rack, set all the items in my wallet on the dresser. The hair dryer became a very useful tool. I used it on my bike shoes, on my pillow, hell, I used it on almost everything. I emptied all 4 panniers, object by object. Piece by piece. Everything was wet. Not soaked though, only small amounts of water had made it into the panniers, but enough that everything needed to dry. I woke up every few hours to rearrange the tent, otherwise it would not dry in certain places.

In the morning, I called the front desk to request a later check-out time than 11am. They said there would be a $35 charge. I said 'I don't think you understand what just happened. Let me explain...' and after I got a little ANGRY she spoke to her manager and said I could have until 1pm. Then I did a load of laundry and continued the process of drying things. Putting humpty dumpty back together again.

Slowly but surely, it was a slow process. Tedious, frustrating. I kept thinking back - 'what could I have done differently?' Obviously, getting the hotel room in the first place would've been the best option. But I had planned on camping 99% of the time on this trip, so that's what I did.
Then I went over the sequence of events. Maybe when I left the tent to seek shelter I should've grabbed my panniers first. Maybe. But at the time, safety was my one and only concern. I wanted to get out of the puddle of water. And, at the time, it was only a puddle. It never occurred to me that the puddle would become a small lake. In fact, I still have no idea how the water level rose so drastically.

Anyway, it is what it is. I am ok, but my phone, iPod and camera are not. But they are replaceable.

I am now in Cooperstown, ND. Yesterday was fittingly beautiful. The calm after the storm. The prettiest day of riding yet. Last night I camped in the city park in Cooperstown, and woke up this morning to a small puddle in the tent. I think being completely submerged, it has lost its ability to be waterproof. There was lots of dew in the air, and the dew made its way into the tent. The doors were moist, the walls were moist. I think the tent is busted. Plus the poles are bent from me trying to lift it. So I'll have to deal with that once I get to Fargo. Fargo is 93.5 miles from here. A long ride ahead of me today.

Happy B-day to me

Thanks y'all for the happy b-day wishes. My dad wished me a happy birthday and better weather wishes, and I received them in the form of the first wind at my back in a looong time. I rode the wind amongst 105 degree temps, 115 degree heat indexes, and 130 degrees on the pavement (according to a state fair official in Minot, ND - where I had spent the previous night). I rode with a hop in my step, a pep in my pedal, because it was my b-day, because the wind was at my back, and because in the back of my mind I knew there was air conditioning waiting at the hotel. And even farther back in my mind I imagined there may also be an ice cold celebratory happy birthday beer waiting as well. It was my quickest ride yet, I averaged almost 17 mph. Fast! For a bike. Otherwise decidedly lentement.
I spent that night in Rugby, ND at an Econolodge. My mom insisted she get a hotel room for me as a present and who was I to blow against the wind? Thanks mom!
It was great actually, to have a shower, and more importantly, air conditioning! I had the room so cold I was shivering. It was such a welcomed change to be cold. I was huddled under blankets, my teeth were gladly chattering in the coldness. Had the best pizza I've had in awhile at Bob's Pizza Inn and Restaurant, as lazy country music played in the background.
Swam the next morning in a surpringly nice pool, and soaked in the whirlpool too. And on my way I went. Happy birthday to me, 29 now, yikes. At least I'm a prime number now... right Jill??!! Turtle will one day see the magic of circles. The endless magic of math and secrets of circles. 3.1415926535zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

The previous night, in Minot, ND, I called Alex the Russian guy because I knew they had stayed at a warm showers place. Warmshowers.org is a website where you can apparently find people who will let you stay at their house for free. I still haven't visited the website, I let Alex do the research and then I just show up, or get the phone number. Alex and the gang are still a day ahead of me, so they had stayed at this place the night before.
Anyway, it was hotter than blazes out as usual, I was considering another hotel (because sleeping when the low is 74 is tough) but most hotels were booked because the state fair was happening. So I call this guy up, Mike, apparently it's an older couple in their 60's.
I called him at 6pm and by 7:30pm I was at a Perkins eating steak (I know, steak at Perkins?? Questionable. But it sounded good.) and mashed potatoes and broccoli. Not bad, right?? Then the daughter had half a chicken finger sandwich that she wasn't going to finish, so I ate that too. And the dad couldn't finish his seafood platter, so I had a nice fillet of fish, and a few dinner rolls. I felt like Nick! Just kidding Nick.

This Mike guy was super cool. I offered him money for dinner, but he declined. And then told me of his bike voyage with friends a looong time ago, in the early 1970s, when a kind Indian man gave them advice (told them not to stay in the city park, because it was Friday night and the local teenagers get a little rowdy - it's that blasted brown water again!) and took them into his home, fed them, etc. Mike had been so thankful for this man's simple kindness, even though it was 40 years ago, that to this day he was affected by it. He simply told me to 'pay it forward'. Amazing how something so simple can affect someone so indeliably.

In the morning they made waffles with whipped cream and fresh fruit and coffee and orange juice and you name it. Amazing breakfast! I asked them if there was a barber shop in town, they said there was. Then Mike mentioned that he had clippers if I wanted to cut my own hair. I asked Heather (their pretty cool daughter) if she would want to give it a try. I told her I wanted a mohawk. She reluctantly agreed, she was nervous. We went out to the garage and Project Mohawk began! It turned into more of a regular haircut, super short, but it feels much better with the heat. My hair was getting pretty long. Now it's very very short, but I still have a beard. I look kinda like a demented Amish person! Ehhh nice.

7.23.2007

Whitewater rafting pics

Here's a few pictures from the rafting trip in Glacier. One of the guys on the trip was nice enough to send them to me.